Saturday, 21 September 2013

Turin, motor city Italy

(From 2011)

Turin is Italy's motor city. It is where FIAT is based and since FIAT now owns every brand in Italian car making Turin is the epicentre of all the countries car making. Naturally Turin has a motor museum, a museum we had visited in 1992. Back then it was a straightforward gallery of cars lined up in rows in a plain white interior. Now the whole place had been completely reconstructed and the museum rebuilt with more a more thematic approach. As is the fashion in many exhibition spaces these days the suggested visiting route began with an escalator ride to the top floor and continued down the stairs. The first gallery began right at the beginning and had an interesting wall of models; models of the most notable attempts to make an 'autonomous carriage' (for wont of a better phrase) before the invention of the internal combustion engine.
The rest of the floor was given over to a chronological development of (mostly Italian) cars; from the earliest types, through the grand Rolls Royces of the 1920s, to the golden age of the Italian coachbuilders in 1950s and 60s. Not a whole lot different from the Mulhouse collection except that the Italians had not put their cars on plinths or kept them at a slight distance; it makes a world of difference being able to walk right up to the cars and peer inside. Looking at rows of neatly parked cars from the front is like looking at neatly hung paintings from behind a rope. It gets a bit boring and repetitive after a while, and all the details that only appear with a close look are missed.
Not even the Italians were prepared to allow visitors to breathe all over the racing cars though. In the lower level the collection of Ferraris, Maseratis and the others were laid out exactly as they had been at Mulhouse; on a dummy starting grid display. The second floor was dedicated to Turin's part in all this. In the staircase lobby were four of the finest models from FIAT and Alfa Romeo. Then, just to remind the visitor that once up a time there were many others, the next room housed respectively a Temperino, a Storero, a SCAT Ceirano and a FOD. I had never heard of any of these marques before, possibly because they were all consigned to history by the 1940s. FOD only ever made one model. The same room also had a giant aerial photograph of the city set in the floor with labels pointing out all of the car factories and other companies involved in Turin throughout the years. There was barely a district that didn't have something automotive as it's industrial centrepiece.

Down on the ground floor was a gallery of Turin's finest designs. What Turin regarded as it's finest designs anyway, and it was surprisingly up to date with concept cars from this year. This explains why museums have taken to having this upside down arrangement with new and temporary exhibitions on the ground floor and the old things upstairs - it's much easier to swap things around in the evening if they are on the ground floor. Turin wasn't just where the cars were built but where they were styled too - in the workshops and studios of Italdesign, Pininfarina, Bertone, and others. And not just Italian cars either, most of the rest of the world's most stylish and notable cars were fashioned here. The final rooms of the exhibition were given over to a video of the personal musings of car designers and small cases holding their inspirations and other favoured designs. Most of them had picked the 1955 Citroen DS as their all-time number one - perhaps a sign of modesty as none of them had anything to do with it. The very very last room housed a small line up of cars without much comment - I assumed we were to infer that these were the very cream of the crop, or the museum's parting comment to us the visitor - an Alfa Giulietta, an Abarth saloon, a 'Disco volante' Alfa (so called because it looks a bit like a wheeled pancake) a white Cisitalia fastback, a Ferrari GTB. Nothing too showy, but all in their subtle way exceptionally fine designs.

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